Thursday, June 5, 2014

L'Arpege Paris: Exhausting indulgence

The most amazing thing in this restaurant it's that the party never seems to end. From the moment you're seated for lunch till your departure, three and a half hours later, the dishes just don't stop coming. Some of them small, some of them more copious, most of them very imaginative, some dishes amount to a tour de force of technique, imagination, freshness and flavors (sea urchin and thyme sabayon? OMG!!!!), other dishes use the seasonal ingredients grown at the chef/owner to create delicious combinations of flavors (rhubarb and asparagus season? hope you like rhubarb and asparagus). Just an incredible lunch afternoon.

But....

At some point, it becomes an overdose, I was crying uncle after the 12th dish (there were fifteen all together, not including amuse bouches and mignardises in the "cheaper" prix fixed menu). It just never ended and I really couldn't wait to get out of there.

Another criticism, and it may just be me, but there was very little protein in the dishes; one small medallion of monkfish, two small nibbles of sweetbreads, one small piece of cheese. I needed some protein badly at the end to balance the meal (and to cure a massive headache).

Service was all in all excellent, but the first 8 dishes arrived in very quick succession and the remaining ones came at a much slower pace.

Conclusion: Go if you must experience this once in a lifetime, but just remember in the words of one of the staff, when I said: "It continues?" she said: "IT NEVER STOPS"
  • Visited April 2014
  • ****

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