Saturday, January 29, 2011

WD50 Molecular Gastronomy or Flavorless Food?

Dinner for four yesterday at WD50, after the obligatory bad table that I get at every restaurant, I am now tired of complaining and we just sit down in a corner booth, totally isolated near a wait station.

The food should be the main reason to go there though and we soon order; the appetizers are nice, very imaginative and taste good, but have some serious issues. The pictures are from the restaurant menu.



The aerated foie gras has a nice mousse like texture even though it looks more like a sponge, the accompaniments though are all wrong; beets? a cornichon? We need a sweet jammy like flavor to complement it, a thicker piece of brioche to spread it on, and instead we get a charcuterie platter accompaniment.



The cold fried chicken is actually my favorite appetizer, but it is mainly due to the fantastic drop of tabasco honey that adds a little bit of flavor to the crunchy texture of the chicken.



I like the corned duck, nice presentation but is is mainly a charcuterie item with decent mustard.



The eggs benedict are everyone's favorite, the yolk is vibrant, the hollandaise sauce is enclosed in English muffin crumbs and deep fried. Delicious all around. The evening's winner!

We also had a peekytoe crabroll that was very good. No picture is available.

On to the mains:



The above dish is a Cod, peas-n-coconut, nori, carrot dashi, visually, it is dramatic and magnificient, taste wise, I am still looking... the cod is flavorless, the only evidence of peas is some green color, I taste no coconut, the carrots have their flavor steamed out of them and the nori pasta is just weird. We ate it but really more out of hunger.




Venison chop, freeze dried polenta, fennel, asian pear; the venison was very well prepared but I can get a good medium rare venison chop anywhere, thefreeze dried polenta had no flavor or texture and I have made better fennel salad in my sleep, how about a little olive oil? maybe some acidity? Nothing in this dish has any flavor save the chop.



Duck breast, apple, cheddar, kimchee-cous cous: again, a well prepared slice of duck breast, and again, that's not why we're at WD50. The kimchee broth doesn't pair well, the Israeli couscous is swimming in the broth and cannot absorb it, the duck apart, the flavors are beyond boring.

The fourth dish was a Parsnip tart, quinoa, hazelnuts, bok choy (no picture), I like the bok choy but I can steam/boil/saute baby bok choy anywhere, the parsnip was bland, the tart crust was a crisp slice of something boring but at least the quinoa and hazelnuts provided a nice contrast in texture.

On to the desserts:



Licorice custard, sake sorbet, bartlett pear: is not much better, a hint of liquorice but the sake sorbet has no consistency or taste of sake



Milk chocolate, black bean, plantain, soy, peanut: is slightly better but that's because of the chocolate flavor.

A third dessert of Grapefruit curd, campari, hibiscus, sorrel was more intriguing because the grapefruit was distinguishable and the flavors were actually a little bolder than usual.

We put a check mark on WD50 and promise ourselves never to set foot in the place again. Maybe we are used to bolder flavors but I don't think that's the reason we dislike it so much. Rather, it is the lack of any flavor per se that made it such a waste. The chef Wylie Dufresne has interesting techniques and a flair for the dramatic, now if he could only combine those with some flavorful food, and add contrasting textures we may have something.

The meal cost $450 with tax, tip and an $87 bottle of wine (one of the cheaper on the list.

Tuesday, January 4, 2011

scallops, latkes, guacamole


In the late eighties, I remember cooking this dish countless times: a potato latke topped with some guacamole and a seared scallop. I have since tinkered with the dish so many times that the original has been lost forever. I can still remember how good the dish tasted at first, and I still have not found a way to recreate it.

I tried again on New Year's Eve with a risotto cake, avocado dip and a seared scallop. I served it on a little tomato coulis for acidity, it turned out watery and flat. The quest continues.

Saturday, December 25, 2010

Mana'ish


Mana'ish is the plural of Man'oushe in Arabic. It's the precursor to pizza or focaccia. A pita dough very yeasty, with zaatar on top baked in a very hot coal/brick oven. Variations include Syrian cheese, tomato and even a baked egg.

I usually buy pizza dough from the local pizzeria but decided to make my own with a mix of tipo 00 and bread flour and a package of yeast. I used my new toy; an Emile Henri pizza stone and preheated the convection oven to its highest setting 550f.

The results were pretty good, not on par with the best pita places in Jaffa, Acco, or Nazareth but perfectly acceptable. We ate them for breakfast with some freshly squeezed orange juice.

Wednesday, December 22, 2010

Burgers at the Kittle House

Probably the best burger in the area is now served in the tap room at the Kittle House. A Pat LaFrieda 8oz patty served with Cheddar, lettuce and tomato. It is a little on the small side but the meat is delicious, the preparation almost perfect and the accompanying fries would not have shamed any Belgian frites joint. Wash it down with one of the beers on their list - I usually have an ale, yesterday's was a Fuller's 1845 Celebration. I could think of worse ways to spend an evening.

Monday, December 20, 2010

2004 Chateau Pradeaux



A wine from Provence that drinks great in the winter, the Bandol from Pradeaux is one delicious nectar. Focused and full of personality the wine smells of Provence herbs like lavender and thyme and is a great accompaniment to grilled or roasted meats. Flavor is of darker fruit, the balance is impeccable. Gotta buy more!

Friday, December 17, 2010

Is there a better Cote de Beaunes than Michel Lafarge's ?



Or better yet, is there a better winemaker in Burgundy than Michel Lafarge? (sorry Messieurs Rousseau, Lignier, Barthod and others, I still love you guys but my heart belongs to Lafarge).

Just so simple and pure and vibrant and focused and flavorful. And from a year like 2004 no less!

Wednesday, December 15, 2010



I made the exact same face when I was on kitchen duty 30 years ago.